There are several ways to keep a steelhead bead stationary on the line.
Some fishermen use a method called “Pegging” by first passing your leader through the bead hole and jamming the point of a toothpick inside the bead hole keeping it on the line where you wanted, and then tying your hook usually about 1 1/2 to 2 inches below the bead for best-natural presentation.
Another method is to use a “Bead-Knot” and begin by passing your leader through the bead hole then coming around and passing it through again.
Once through, you then wrap the line around the loop of the line 7-8 times and pull straight.
This causes the wraps to disappear into the bead hole and then finish off by tying your hook below the bead.
Both methods seem to work fine, some thinning may be required to the toothpick to get it deep, as it may sometimes come loose due to limited tension on the line or if too-much tension it’s possible you could damage the line.
The Bead-Knot also works fine.
Care should be taken not to curl when pulling the wraps tight by lobbing the knot.
Steelhead Bead Rigging with a HLS Bead Peg:
A new bead rigging tool introduced recently is based on the same concept using a toothpick.
The pick itself though is made of flexible silicone.
The HLS Bead Peg is probably the easiest way to peg your bead quickly and easy, consisting of a thin-tapered peg, about 1/2” long & looks just like a toothpick.
Its key-feature is its elasticity.
Once you pass your line or leader through the bead;
Push the narrow end of the peg-it into the bead hole until it sticks out the other end;
Pull it to stretch and jam the peg in the bead hole then clip the excess off at top and bottom sides of the bead keeping the bead securely wherever you want it.
The soft silicone peg will not damage the line and the bead can be moved up and down the line easily, yet hold firm. The Peg-It will also work for other type beads with a larger bore diameter to a maximum of about 2mm.
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